Machine Binding Tutorial

Hello! I realized recently that I have never posted a binding tutorial here for how I machine bind my quilts. I'm not sure exactly where I learned this technique, I suspect it's a blend of several picked up over the years.  It's fast and secure and I'm very happy with how it looks finished.

Assemble your binding. I use 2.5" strips for my binding. If you're feeling motivated you can join them with 45 degree angles so that the seams make less bulk, but it works fine with straight seams, too. I recommend using a fairly small stitch length to make these stronger (On my machine I use 1.8) Assemble a long strip and trim seam allowances to 0.25"

Optionally attach a label that will be caught under the binding. This is how I attach CiL labels. Align it with one corner of the quilt and stitch down the two sides that won't end up under the binding. 

Yes, the bobbin thread will show on the front. I look for a place to attach it where the bobbin thread will blend in well with the fabric. 

You can fold the binding in half and press with an iron if you like, but with practice I find that it doesn't really save me any time. I fold it and align the edges as I go.  

Sew the binding to the back of the quilt first. Start in the middle of one of the straight edges of the quilt, leaving about a 5" tail free.  None of these stitches will end up showing, so use whatever color thread you need to use up. 

Sew the binding with both raw edges flush to the edge of the quilt using a fat 0.25" seam allowance. I adjust my needle position so I can use the edge of my presser foot as a guide. As you reach the seams where the binding is joined, finger press them open. 

At this point you may need to stop to reposition your cat to give you more room to work. 

When you reach a corner sew until the needle is 0.25" from the corner. With the needle in the down position rotate the quilt 90 degrees. If you are using your presser foot as a guide, then when you have sewn to the right spot it will align with the edge of the quilt. 

Back stitch off the quilt, creating an L shaped line of stitching. 

Fold the binding straight up, creating a diagonal fold. Note that the binding should line up with the edge of the quilt. 

Next, fold the binding straight down, covering up the diagonal fold you made before. The crease should be even with the edge of the quilt. 

Start stitching about 0.5" from the corner and back stitch to 0.25". You should be able to feel the hidden diagonal fold with your fingers, you want to go just up to it, but not stich through it.  

This is how your corner should looks if done correctly. Then, continue stitching down the side as before. 

When you get back around to where you started, stop about 5" from the end of the tail you left before. Straighten out and align both loose edges of the binding, overlapping them.

Trim to a 0.5" overlap.

Shorten your stitch length and sew the edges of the binding together.  Finger press the seam open and stitch down the last 10" of binding. 

If you end up with a little fabric shifting in your binding and need to make a tuck don't worry.  

Nine times out of ten the tuck is only in the inside layer of the binding and won't show up on the finished side. 

Moving onto the top. Switch your top thread to one that matches your binding color and optionally switch your bobbin to a color that matches your backing fabric. I usually start a few inches from a corner. Once you've locked in your beginning stitches, I recommend lengthening your stitch length so it will look more even and a better finish (I use 2.4 or 2.6 on my machine).

Working about 6" at a time, use your fingers to make sure the top is well tucked in under the binding. Fold the binding around and over, firmly but not tightly. You want no un-stuffed binding where the edge of the quilt doesn't fill up the binding. But you also don't want to pull or roll any of the binding that belongs on the back around to the front. 

When you have things neat, hold it with your hands while top stitching just at the edge of the binding crease. When you reach the end of the section you had folded nicely, pause with the needle down and fix the next section. You may need to slow your stitch speed until you get the hang of it.

With practice you can get a nice straight line and consistent binding width. I'm confident that the edge of the quilt is covered by more than 0.25" seam allowance of binding on both the front and back and will hold up to years of use.

Pause a couple inches away from the corner and fold up the lower binding.

Use something like a seam ripper or a turner to press a crease to the right, all the way into the corner of the binding you're just about to sew down.

Fold the binding on the right over the lower, creating a nice crisp 45 degree corner. Move forward slowly and sew the corner down.

I will often back stitch just one or two stitches in each direction to reinforce the corner. 

Here's a view from the back. 

And that's it! Just keep sewing until you get back to where you started. Here's how the label turns out. 

You can see the bobbin thread from top-stitching down the binding ends up about a sixteenth of a inch away from the binding on the back.  Even on this relatively dark backing I think the white thread doesn't look bad as long as it's consistent. I find that most people's eye considers white a bit of a background color anyway and will overlook it. Of course you could switch your bobbin thread to a matching color if you have one spun up.

I know some people can stitch in the ditch of their binding and catch the other side, but I'm just not consistent enough for that.

Here's a view of another corner from the front. The quilt police wouldn't approve, but I think it's nice enough for anyone else. I hope this tutorial helps some of you who haven't been brave enough to try machine binding or haven't found a technique you prefer! 

  Linking to Finished or Not Friday